Sunday, May 29, 2016

Guatemala Day 9

Today we visited a traditional healer, Sebastiana. She showed us some of the traditional herbs that she uses and told us about her experiences working with the community + her time in El Salvador(?). Just from listening to her, it is very evident that she is a very passionate and compassionate person. Someone asked her if she's had a patient interaction that was really poignant or memorable or life-changing. As she was telling the story, she started tearing up and even though it was so long ago, that moment meant so much to her. I really don't know how to describe it, but you could just feel how much she cared about everyone.

Doña Sebastiana 
Doña Sebastiana and Dr. Quinn. She went around and told us which herb she would prescribe us if we were her patient.
Some of her herbs, which she picks and prepares herself.
Doña Sebastiana also gave us our nawales (Mayan horoscopes). Unlike Western or Chinese zodiac signs, you get multiple signs. I'm not 100% sure what she said about mine but this is what I gathered:
Cib (owl) is the guardian of ancient wisdom. This is the day I was born into. She didn't tell me much else, but she said that I have to make sure that I take care of my inner turmoil or else I won't be able to become the great leader I'm supposed to be. This was interesting because before giving us our signs, she pulled me aside and told me that I had to forgive someone, either a woman that I'm close to or a man in my family. I honestly had no idea who that could be, but I was pretty concerned about it because she said it was essential to my health o.o
E is kind of like Mother Earth, from what I gathered. She said that I only have one planet (I guess people normally have multiple or have to rely on others to complement them) because I am self-sufficient and very powerful.
Q'anil (rabbit) is the guardian of life and is my past sign (influences childhood, but continues to support you as you grow into your day sign). She said this is probably what has led me to the medical field.
K'at (spider) is the web of life - the complications, the networks, etc. This is my destiny sign. She said specifically for me, given all my other signs, it's very important that I rely on my network of friends for support. I will often think that I can do things on my own, which may be true, but that doesn't mean I have to or that I should.
***

Afterwards, we went to Chichicastenango for lunch and shopping.

We ate at a AYCE restaurant inside a hotel, but that was not the highlight. There were colorful birds throughout the courtyard and this one even said "¡Hola!" to us!
I ended up only buying one thing, but it was my biggest purchase yet: 325Q (~$43) for this beeeaauuuuutiful backpack! It's blue and hand-embroidered with real leather. I wanted it but couldn't bring myself to buy it for myself, so I bought it for my sister (a souvenir/graduation gift/birthday present). A 3-in-1 gift for less than $50? Worth it.

I didn't take very many pictures because I was browsing and I didn't feel very comfortable flashing my camera around, so this one will have to do....

One of the many walkways in the Chichicastenango market. It's the biggest outdoor market in Central America. 

Saturday, May 28, 2016

Guatemala Day 8

You will not believe the stuff we did today. So first of all, we went to Fuentes Georginas, AKA NATURAL MOUNTAIN HOT SPRINGS IN THE JUNGLE WHAAAAAAT




For those of you who don't know, I LOVE hot springs so this was one of the coolest places I've ever been. I wish I would have taken more pictures (this is basically it), but I was a little busy disfrutar-ing the different pools. The water could have been hotter, but you know what, I'm not gonna complain because the place was gorgeous + you can drink the water (not inside the pool because that's gross, but you could collect drops of citrus-y volcano tea (?!?!?) falling from the rock wall in the photo). Note to self: get water-proof camera.

***

But wait! That's not all! One of our drivers, Don Rafael, invited us to his home to see his wife/mother give a weaving demonstration!

Once the threads are prepared, they are wrapped around this contraption. The colors look pretty random, but it actually requires great skill to know exactly what color each thread should be in order to create a specific pattern 
Once that's done, it's rolled up into a ball like this
Then they string up that ball of thread onto this backstrap loom (not pictured; backstrap that Don Rafael's wife is sitting on that keeps this whole thing taut and functioning)
Videos of the demonstration to come later, but here is a close up of what the pattern actually looks like. I am still not entirely sure how the threads come together nor how one can possibly picture this design and then figure out the exact order in which the colors to be in order to actually create the design!
I'm so grateful to Don Rafael and his family for welcoming us and giving us this unique and intimate experience. I have a newfound respect for weavers and weaving and woven material. Maybe I will just go find a Guatemalan family to live with and learn how to weave and how to speak Spanish/one of the Mayan languages (I am only half kidding).

Friday, May 27, 2016

Guatemala Day 7

Today we hiked up a mountain to the sacred Laguna de Chicabal.

We rode our party buses to a little rest stop on the mountain. From there, all 14 of us + the driver squeezed into this pick up truck and went to the entrance of the park.
I forgot to mention that the truck had bull horns and a siren that went off before we started driving. I think that made the whole experience :)
A to-scale map of our hike
Obligatory FTFO photo
After hiking up the mountain (which was insanely difficult because 1) it was really steep and 2) we're not even used to the elevation of Xela yet), it was a relief to walk down a million steps 
If you look carefully, you can see a man in this picture. I wanted to ask him to trade pictures with me (since I was obviously in his picture too), but he disappeared. I guess it just wasn't meant to be.
First glimpse of the lake! It's a sacred Mayan lake so you're not allowed to touch (let alone swim in) the water.
The remnants of some Mayan rituals 
We were not the only visitors to the lake. There were a LOT of different school groups there, presumably on a field trip to this very important site. You could tell they were confused because our group is so diverse - they couldn't really pinpoint where we were from. After a few minutes of curious stares and awkward eye contact, they started to approach us...

They absolutely ADORED Ariel's hair. They were touching it and asking how it's done. I wish I got a picture of the whole group that swarmed her!
And then there was Jaeho with his very unique look and personality. Some of the girls started asking me if we were dating (presumably because we're both Asian lol) and when I said no, they started giggling HAHA They wanted to take selfies with him and when he pulled out his trusty selfie stick, there was an absolute riot. They were SO excited. Some of them thought he looked like  구준표, a famous Korean actor:
I don't see the resemblance...
And then, right when we thought that things couldn't possibly get more exciting, a man comes out of the blue and starts to serenade Ariel.
And then we got into a huge circle and started playing games with them. I have NO idea how to describe it but videos to come... 
Okay and then after a while, we finished our walk around the lake, sat down and ate lunch, then walked back to the red bull truck.

And along the way, we played on a rope swing which was nothing short of fantastic.
Today was such a fantastic day. Not only did we get to hike and see this beautiful lake, the kids really welcomed us into their community. I think they were fascinated by how different we were (how we looked, how we acted, how we spoke, how we lived), but I was fascinated by how similar we are. What we eat for breakfast, what we wear, what language we speak may be different, but kids around the world all like to play and have fun and are interested by new and novel things and I'm so honored that they included us in their game and were so open to us. Wherever I am, I want to think about those kids and remind myself to keep that kind of open mind, open heart, and open mind.

Thursday, May 26, 2016

On Monday,  Dr. Sanchez gave us two talks on Tropical Diseases in Guatemala & Antibiotic Resistance. I will spare you from having to see photos of spaghetti-like intestinal worms that have been pooped out and the various skin rashes and other gross things. I think that Dr. Sanchez's lecture really emphasized how much health, disease, language, culture (and economy) are really intertwined (the name of the class!). I thought it was especially interesting how tourism and emigration/immigration (especially problematic in Guatemala as a result of war and poverty and migrant workers) contributes to the spread of disease. All of these things have socioeconomic consequences. Plus, migrant workers have poor living conditions (unclean, crowded) which leads to the spread of even more communicable diseases.

He also said something interesting about Dengue fever, Chikungunya and the Zika virus. These are all very similar diseases and spread by a type of mosquito called Aedes aegypti. They have the same symptoms, but each one to differing severity. So doctors look at the symptoms and diagnose it based on whether there's more of a fever than joint pain, etc. THEN there's Zika, which is a fairly new disease (been around for 2 years). Again, there are very similar symptoms, but no definitive biomedical test. So it's only diagnosed when you have the right symptoms and the doctors have ruled out Chikunguya and Dengue!

Dr. Sanchez also scared us all away from ever ever EVER eating street food (though half the group didn't need convincing after getting an intestinal bacteria on the first day LOL) and washing our face and brushing our teeth with pure water. Some people were even nervous about taking a shower because what if a drop of contaminated water goes into our mouth and gives us horrible diarrhea haha. But after hearing what the sick people went through, I would be extra wary too.
Dr. Sanchez giving his lecture on Antibiotic Resistance
This was the last slide of his presentation. It says "Thank you for your attention" LOL What a funny guy
***

On Tuesday, we had a tour of a local NGO called Primeros Pasos, which works to "improve the quality of life in rural communities [of the Palajunoj Valley] through integrated health education programs and access to medical services." I really loved how they focused so much on sustainability and empowering local residents (esp. by giving them opportunities to become more active in the NGO). While they do provide medical attention, which is an acute need, their main goal is more long-term: to improve health through education <-- sooooooooo important in global health but just in general of making the world a better place.

Anyways, from what I saw, I really liked what they do and how they think and would even considering volunteering there during my gap year. They actively fight against the #whitesaviorcomplex and cultivate cultural humility; it's not about voluntourism or altourism, but real volunteerism and altruism! AAAH idk I just really appreciated everything they had to say there.

The first thing you see when you get to the NGO
Map of the different communities in the Palajunoj Valley. I had to ask my Spanish teacher how to pronounce that...
The dentist's office within the compound
Examination Room
Lab
Cute murals everywhere!!
After lunch, we had a tour of Public General Hospital San Juan de Dios, the public hospital in Xela. This would be the 3rd tier in the health system (health posts --> health centers --> district hospital --> specialized referral hospitals). There was a HUGE difference between what we saw earlier in the morning at Primeros Pasos and here. And although this is considered one of the large hospitals in Guatemala, I thought it was fairly small and humble. I don't know if anyone else felt this way, but I thought it all looked a little run-down and dilapidated. I really got the sense of what Dr. Sanchez was saying about how the health system is in the worst state in his 35 years of working in the public sector. Maybe I was primed to think that way, but I was really surprised (? that's not the right word) at how much they were lacking. I had read about it in my research and heard about it from teachers, doctors, and the Somos Hermanos staff, but seeing it in person was very... different. Much more poignant.

But there was something else that really made this entire experience kind of awful. We were this large group of foreigners just gawking at people in the hospital (which is already an unpleasant experience for them). We were also a large group so I just felt like we were in the way. I tried my best to smile at people and acknowledge them. I felt really uncomfortable the whole time, but I'm glad we discussed it afterwards and kind of debriefed. I definitely wasn't the only person to feel that way, but I also feel like our visit and our outrage will spur us into action which will make it worth it. I also think there's a large cultural difference when it comes to privacy and we were more outraged because we're not used to that kind of lack of privacy. But anyways, I digress.

The main entrance to the hospital
I don't think this is that important, but I got a kick out of seeing it because in my Business French class, my professor put such a HUGE emphasis on organigrammes. I knew they existed, but I had never really seen anyone who uses organigrammes so I had to take a picture and send it to her :P
They have signs translated into two Mayan dialects that are widely used in this area. Unfortunately, because this is a district hospital, people who come from very far away don't necessarily speak these languages so they are at a disadvantage. At the same time, I don't know how plausible it is to have someone for each of the 22 languages at all times...
Obligatory group picture!
***

On Wednesday we watched Estrellas de la Linea, which was about a group of prostitutes from Guatemala City (Guate) who decided to make a soccer team and compete in local tournaments. These prostitutes are all from "La Linea," which is apparently where people who are worth less than trash go. These women prostitute themselves without pimps, so they have some sense of liberty. There was a lot of public backlash, especially from the parents of the teams they played. The first field in which they played, they were kicked out due to the outcry and parents demanded that they change the turf in case there was any blood or sweat that was contaminated with AIDS. Despite the outrage, they also gained a significant amount of fame and international support. Guatemalatravels.net even sponsored their tour and other prostitute soccer teams started appearing worldwide.

In the beginning of the film, one of the women, Valeria, said that this soccer team was a way of getting attention because no one would care if a group of prostitutes marched on the Presidential Palace. But by making this team and getting press, they wanted to advocate for women's rights, especially for protection from gender-based violence and less police harassment of immigrant women. She exclaimed that before prostitutes, we are mothers and women first. Even though they didn't successfully revolutionize gender politics in Guatemala and they weren't respected as athletes and public opinion about prostitutes didn't change, I think it was worth it. They had those little moments of victory and self-confidence and helping each other and being able to visit Tikal and other parts of Guatemala which would have been out of the question otherwise.

It also made me think about why people choose this kind of life. For some people, as we talked about during the discussion, sex work can be empowering, a way of reclaiming sexuality for themselves. But sex work is also dangerous because of its inextricable link to human trafficking and the high incidence of femicide in Guatemala (Guatemala was actually one of the first countries to adopt this as a legal term, presumably because of its prevalence). And at least in this movie, a lot of these women seemed to have to other choice; they had a history of being sexually abused or assaulted; others were kicked out by their family; etc.

Finally, I found it very interesting how religious these women were. It was heartbreaking to hear them talk about how they know they are sinning and how God doesn't like what they're doing, but they have no choice. To know that they are so convicted in their beliefs yet they feel that they have to do this kind of work... I will never fully understand the inner turmoil that must cause. Despite the frustrations and apparent lack of success, I am so glad I watched this movie because it really humanized this group of people that are so often seen as dirty and less than.



***

On Thursday Dr. Fredy came and spoke to us about Design and Function of the Guatemalan Health System and the Role of NGOs in Guatemala & Diabetes in Guatemala. His first lecture basically confirmed 75% of my group's research which was that health in Guatemala shouldn't be this bad, but it does as a direct result of such pervasive inequality and rampant corruption. In theory, the government provides healthcare because it's believed to be a universal right. However, in reality, 75% of the cost is out-of-pocket for patients and 18% of the population have no access at all. That translates to roughly 3 million people in Guatemala alone who have ZERO access to healthcare. We wouldn't know the exact number though because the government is so screwed up that the last census was taken in 2002....

His second lecture was also interesting because he started off by saying that, contrary to popular belief, diabetes is not just a disease of the rich. About 80% of diabetes mellitus incidences occurs in Low and Middle Income Countries (LMIC). In Guatemala, diabetes is, at least in part, caused/exacerbated by remittances from and cultural attitudes towards the USA. Family in Los Estados will send money and say "Hey treat the kids out to some McDonalds" and, because things from "America" are so highly valued, they see it as a good thing. Obviously this is only one example, but that's how remittances contribute to disease. The other problem with diabetes in LMIC is that people either don't know they have diabetes or, if they do know, treatment is either physically or financially inaccessible. As a result, 80% of diabetes-related deaths occur in LIC (that's a lot). In Guatemala, specifically, a big problem is that people who get treated for their diabetes think they can stop taking their medication when the symptoms disappear. This is a result of both lack of education and lack of money (if there are no symptoms, it's not an immediate problem so their limited financial resources can be used elsewhere). Are you guys seeing a theme here? Corruption, inequality, lack of education. That's basically what I've garnered from all the research I've done.

Dr. Fredy speaks with his eyebrows and his hands as much as he does with his mouth. He's very energetic!
At the end of Dr. Fredy's lecture, Dr. Quinn introduced us to Joe Herrold, one of the co-founders of Somos Hermanos. I talked to him for a while about my what my career path should look like given what I want to do, how the heck I'm going to pay for medical school, etc. He gave me a lot of advice and told me that I shouldn't listen to people who say I have to go into primary care or what have you if I want to work with low-income populations. He also assured me that whatever path I choose, as long as I'm passionate and hard-working, I can make it happen; so if I wanted, I can incorporate medicine, education, public policy, and social innovation into one career. He literally said do whatever the **** I want. LOL But yea. I really appreciated everything he told me and I'm a little bit less unsure about going to medical school now :P

Guatemala Day 3-6

I find Spanish both intriguing and frustrating at the same time. It's intriguing how much I can understand, but it's frustrating that I can't say what I want to say. I've only had 3 days of Spanish class, but since the first day, my teacher and I have been discussing politics (and how, despite everything, Guatemala and the US are in very similar situations), the effects of global warming, and Greek/Roman mythology (a point of common interest for me and my professor).

Our Spanish school, Sol Latino, has a very unique way of teaching - I'm not sure how much I like it. On the first day, my teacher spent a LOT of time writing in the different usages of ser and estar. We spent at least 1.5 hours on it, but honestly, we could have moved on in less than 20 minutes. As important as these basics are, I felt bored and I want to move faster and learn moreeeeeeeeee.

This is a doblada AKA the single greatest thing I've ever eaten in my life. I know I tend to exaggerate a lot, and this is one of those cases, but it's really really really yummy. I need to find this back in LA.
***

On Tuesday, we had our first Somos Hermanos meeting where we got a little introduction to the historical background of Mayans/Guatemala and immigration trends in the USA as it relates to Guatemala. I won't bore you with hours-worth of lecture and discussion, but if you're interested, look up history on the United Fruit Company (did some really messed up things, now Chiquita Brands International).

My favorite part of this was discussing immigration, especially because of the current political atmosphere back at home. It's hard to imagine a time when we were much more open to immigrants, but apparently a LOT has changed. If anything, these changes in US immigration policy has only made the immigration "problem" (for lack of a better word) worse than it was, and much worse than it has to be. The rhetoric doesn't help - the fact that we call Central Americans "illegal aliens" but others "refugees"... They (and their situations) are not inherently different, but we make them seem bad. And then we institutionalize this idea that "immigrants are criminals" by making illegal entry a misdemeanor or a felony.

One thing I had never really thought about was the fact that so many Guatemalans (not sure about other Central American countries) who try to come to the USA are not native Spanish speakers. I always thought that, oh, if we integrate Spanish into our court systems and have Spanish-speaking public defenders, etc., it would at least help their situation; but in fact, that's not the case. A lot of the recent immigrants are indigenous people who speak one of 22 Mayan languages. The more you know, right?

***

On Tuesday, we watched TWO movies: Harvest of Empire and ¡Salud! Cuban Doctors.

This movie was about USA intervention in Central America (Puerto Rico, Guatemala, Mexico, Cuba, Dominican Republic, Nicaragua, El Salvador). It did get a little repetitive, but wow I've learned so much about all the really screwed up things the USA has done. We've torn down progressive, (actually) democratically-elected government leaders that were not good for certain US leaders' personal economic interests by calling them Communist; we've supported brutal dictatorships for our "best economic interests" (AKA to screw over a lot of people that we were supposed to be helping); started civil wars; covertly funded terrorist groups; exploited migrant workers (oh we still do that oops); and many of these things, more than once.

At the end of this movie, I was really really angry because I didn't know how else to feel. I was mad that I never learned about this in school (although it's not abnormal for the government not to teach things that make them look bad). I was mad that it happened. I was mad that I didn't know what I could do to fix it. I was mad that so-called "illegal aliens" are treated so inhumanely. I'm still angry.

To be quite honest, I was nodding off throughout this movie - that's not to say it's a bad film, we've just had a jam-packed schedule for the last couple of days. I'll just have to watch it when I get back! I did read some articles about it though and it's so interesting how much international work Cuban doctors do. It makes sense though. I remember reading about a lung cancer vaccine that was developed in Cuba and being surprised that they were so medically advanced.

***

On Thursday, a comadrona, or traditional midwife, named Berta Juarez came and spoke with us about her work. She showed us all the different herbs that she uses to help women through the birthing process, as well as some of the unique cultural characteristics that are very important to the community she serves. One thing she does after the baby is born is put various things in its hand: money (to say, hey, you're in this world now, here's your money. Learn how to handle it), a pencil (to learn how to use this tool), and, for girls, a card of the loom (to learn how to use this tool as well). They also put salt/chili across the baby's lips to prevent him or her from saying bad words. I thought all these little things were so cute + interestingly, it's very similar to some of the traditional Korean things we do at a baby's first birthday party.
Part of the post-birth bath. The mother (Faith) is bathed with special soaps and herby water. The comadrona also uses a steamed herb to massage the mother's muscles and help her recover more quickly (i.e. Faith got slapped all over her body with a bunch of leaves)
Berta really seems to care about her job and the mothers she works with. The amount of care, compassion and competence she had made me wonder why I wouldn't choose to give birth with a comadrona if I were to ever have kids haha.

This class was especially interesting to me because traditional midwives were an integral part of my proposed solutions for improving maternal health in Nigeria (what I studied last year at Oxford). I'm glad that I got to see this demonstration and I hope to see something similar when it comes to Nigerian traditional midwives someday!

***

After the comadrona demonstration, Elizabeth and I visited the cemetery nearby our house. It's kind of weird to say this, but it's a really beautiful place.

The graves are really colorful. This was along one end of the cemetery and it looks like it goes on forever!
Not only were there hundreds of Weeping Angels, there were also a few headless ones...
At the entrance of the cemetery it says: La memoria de los vivos hace la vida de los muertos
Every time we get home, three puppies come to greet us. This one is named Peluche (Teddy) :)
***

At the end of this week, we were asked two reflection questions:

1. What do you want to take from this experience? How will you be in solidarity when you go back to the USA?
I think one of the most frustrating things about this trip is how helpless I feel. I'm learning about all these issues, but I don't know how to make things better, how to fix things. But I guess what I can do right now, is to be more cognizant of the differences and unique features of different Latino groups instead of clumping them all together. I also want to encourage my Latino students to talk about (and learn/teach) their family history and background. I also want to encourage discussion among my students from all different backgrounds about family history, immigration, tolerance, and all the other things we've been talking about the last few days.

2. What are your goals for this program?
First and foremost, I would like to improve my Spanish language skills, whether that means having a conversation with a complete stranger or just being content with the immense amount of progress I've already made (and am making).
Secondly, I want to leave Guatemala with the ability, confidence, and knowledge to be able to talk about the history, current situation, (but more importantly) culture, and people of Xela and Guatemala.